There
is a standard formula for determining thread consumption. In that
formula you will get multiplying factors according to machine type and
stitch class. To determine thread consumption you just need to multiply
seam length with that factors. This way one can estimate total thread
requirement for making a garment.
Actual thread consumption for a unit length of seam depends on following factors.
1.Stitch Classes
2.Stitches per inches (SPI)
3.Thickness of the seam (fabric thickness)
4.Thread tension
5. Thread count (thickness of sewing thread)
So you are suggested to calculate garment thread consumption by your
own. You can develop multiplying factor according to your product
categories and requirement using following steps.
Also Read: Thread Consumption Calculation Process is Simplified
Step 1: To calculate thread ratio, you need a sewing machine, fabric
and sewing thread that will be used for bulk production. For fabric and
thread you can take similar thickness and same thread count in case
actual is not available.
Step 2: Sew a seam of 12 cms long and take 10 cms seam out of it by trimming 1 cm from both edges.
Step 3: Unravel both needle thread and bobbin thread from the seam.
Remove crimp from the unraveled thread and measure its length in cm.
Generally it will be higher than the seam length. Now find the
multiplying factor by dividing thread length with seam length. Assume
unraveled needle thread length is 12.5 cm then needle thread multiplying
factor is 12.5/10 or 1.25.
Using this method you can find out any types of machines’ thread consumption factors.
Step 4: Once you have consumption factors then it is easy to calculate
total thread consumption. Measure seam length of all operations of the
garment and get thread requirement by multiplying thread consumption
factor. Add thread wastage 5% for the thread that trim out from each
ends of the seam.
For quick reference you can follow the following thread consumption ratios. Source: Coats thread consumption guide.
If you want to refer ready made thread consumption factors then refer to Coats and A&E's Technical bulletins.
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