The
Line Starts Here is a comprehensive approach to apparel merchandising
from the perspective of the apparel producer. Rosenau and Wilson draw on
their extensive backgrounds in the industry covering mens tailored
clothing, mens and womens sportswear and activewear and childrens wear,
in both domestic and international markets. This text follows the evolution
of the merchandising function with emphasis on production efficiency.
This entails a focus on product development and the philosophies and
perspectives of industry executives. The authors capture the interface
of merchandising with the marketing and manufacturing departments and
the way these functions integrate in an effective team concept.
About the Authors/Editors
Jeremy A. Rosenau is Assistant Professor at Philadelphia University,
where he is coordinator of Fashion Apparel Management Program and a
freshman advisor. He has served as president and board member of
Childrenswear Manufacturers Association and as a board member for the
Educational Foundation for the Fashion Industry.
David L.
Wilson is a former Assistant Professor and Director of Fashion and
Apparel Programmes at Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science. His
business experience has included positions in the fashion apparel
industry ranging from corporate engineering director to president and
CEO of several apparel companies.
Contents
* Merchandising: The Concept
- Evolution of Merchandising in the Apparel Industry
- Modern Merchandising
* Merchandising: The Planning
- Market Knowledge
- Planning and Control
* Merchandising: The Execution
- Line Development: Principles and Technologies
- Line Development: The Process
- Costing and Pricing Strategies
- Quality
- Supply Chain Management
- Sourcing Strategies
- The Sourcing Process
* Merchandising: The Future
- Future Direction
Sunday, June 22, 2014
What Is Merchandising?
• Merchandising is the process of increasing visibility and appeal of products to increase sale ability
• It includes product packaging, placement, promotion and "special pricing"
• One other form of merchandising is using the brand power of one organization to sell products of another.(sports personalities and entertainment cos lending their brand names to various products)
• Mostly merchandising focuses on presentation of products including displays and special in store storage and packaging(gift bags, racks, trays), posters, danglers, special cards/brochures
• It also features discount schemes along with the pricing and packaging features
• Outdoor signage and on shop and in shop signage could also feature as part of merchandising
Planning and evaluation
• Some aspects like signage should be considered as longer term and should feature as investment
• Others including displays and special packaging and pricing initiatives would be shorter term and should be expended
• All expenditure should be justified in terms of real sales increase(not changing the timing of purchase by customer as in most festival sales)
• Test marketing and post purchase surveys of customers should be the basis of evaluation
• One tip is that all merchandising should keep the customer in mind. Need to avoid feeding the creative instincts or egos of marketing personnel in the company
• Merchandising should be the joint responsibility of Marketing and Sales sub functions of the larger Marketing function
• It includes product packaging, placement, promotion and "special pricing"
• One other form of merchandising is using the brand power of one organization to sell products of another.(sports personalities and entertainment cos lending their brand names to various products)
• Mostly merchandising focuses on presentation of products including displays and special in store storage and packaging(gift bags, racks, trays), posters, danglers, special cards/brochures
• It also features discount schemes along with the pricing and packaging features
• Outdoor signage and on shop and in shop signage could also feature as part of merchandising
Planning and evaluation
• Some aspects like signage should be considered as longer term and should feature as investment
• Others including displays and special packaging and pricing initiatives would be shorter term and should be expended
• All expenditure should be justified in terms of real sales increase(not changing the timing of purchase by customer as in most festival sales)
• Test marketing and post purchase surveys of customers should be the basis of evaluation
• One tip is that all merchandising should keep the customer in mind. Need to avoid feeding the creative instincts or egos of marketing personnel in the company
• Merchandising should be the joint responsibility of Marketing and Sales sub functions of the larger Marketing function
10 Tips to Becoming a Good Fashion Merchandiser
Fashion merchandising is about finance as well as clothes.
The world of fashion merchandising is more about hard work than about glamour. The main focus of the job is ensuring that stores deliver the right clothes to customers. Fashion merchandisers are involved in predicting trends and managing stock with the overall goal of getting the most profit for their company. Becoming a good fashion merchandiser encompasses the skills you acquire as you train for the profession.
Help Customers Find What They Need
You’ll increase profit if you get customers what they want in a way that’s straightforward for them. One way to implement this is to ensure that a store’s stock contains items that pair well with other garments, so customers are drawn into multiple sales.
Think Layout
Merchandising can involve creating a store layout plan to allocate stock. Remember in this process that visual appeal and access can influence customers. For example, customers typically search clothes from left to right on a display, according to the Careers in Fashion website.
The world of fashion merchandising is more about hard work than about glamour. The main focus of the job is ensuring that stores deliver the right clothes to customers. Fashion merchandisers are involved in predicting trends and managing stock with the overall goal of getting the most profit for their company. Becoming a good fashion merchandiser encompasses the skills you acquire as you train for the profession.
- Multifaceted Education
- Make a Plan
- Get Design Experience
Help Customers Find What They Need
You’ll increase profit if you get customers what they want in a way that’s straightforward for them. One way to implement this is to ensure that a store’s stock contains items that pair well with other garments, so customers are drawn into multiple sales.
- Get Retail Experience
Think Layout
Merchandising can involve creating a store layout plan to allocate stock. Remember in this process that visual appeal and access can influence customers. For example, customers typically search clothes from left to right on a display, according to the Careers in Fashion website.
- Key Skills
- Tailor to Target Consumer
- Prepare to Multitask
- Managing Stock
How We Calculate The Zipper Length
The
rules of zipper measurement is very simple but some time it becomes a
matter of big trouble for us. Actually it depends on the fabric &
zipper properties. So, at first we must need an idea about the shrinkage
of body fabric & zipper tape. Some zipper measurements are not very
complicated such as pocket, leg opening etc. Here, we only discuss
about the front long zipper of sweat shirt or Jacket or as like that.
A) If the garments is hooded sweat shirt and the zipper goes up to front neck drop from bottom then the rules will as under -
Say,
Body length (From HPS) – 73 cm
Front Neck drop (CB) – 8 cm
Back Neck drop – 2 cm
(Use the below rule if the body length measure from HPS)
Rules : Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop) – 2% to 3%
= ( 73 – (8 + 2)) -2%
= ( 73 – 10 ) – 2%
= 63 – 2%
= 61.5 cm
OR
Body length (From CB) – 71 cm
Front Neck drop(CB) – 8 cm
(Use the below rule if the body length measure from CB)
Rules : (Body length - Front neck drop ) – 2% to 3%
= ( 71 – 8 ) -2%
= ( 71 – 8 ) – 2%
= 63 – 2%
= 61.5 cm
B) If the garments is high neck and the zipper goes up to to of high neck drop from bottom then the rules will as under -
Say,
Body length (From CB) – 65 cm
Front Neck drop – 6 cm
Height of high neck – 6 cm
Rules : (Body length - Front neck drop) – 2% to 3% + Height of high neck
= ( 65 – 6) -2% + 6
= ( 59 ) – 2% + 6
= 57.82 + 6
= 63.82 cm = 64 cm
Moreover, the rules is not always remain fixed, its may vary depends on practical situations.
However, I always advise that you must confirm the zipper measurement with your cutting master & production manager before place an order.
A) If the garments is hooded sweat shirt and the zipper goes up to front neck drop from bottom then the rules will as under -
Say,
Body length (From HPS) – 73 cm
Front Neck drop (CB) – 8 cm
Back Neck drop – 2 cm
(Use the below rule if the body length measure from HPS)
Rules : Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop) – 2% to 3%
= ( 73 – (8 + 2)) -2%
= ( 73 – 10 ) – 2%
= 63 – 2%
= 61.5 cm
OR
Body length (From CB) – 71 cm
Front Neck drop(CB) – 8 cm
(Use the below rule if the body length measure from CB)
Rules : (Body length - Front neck drop ) – 2% to 3%
= ( 71 – 8 ) -2%
= ( 71 – 8 ) – 2%
= 63 – 2%
= 61.5 cm
B) If the garments is high neck and the zipper goes up to to of high neck drop from bottom then the rules will as under -
Say,
Body length (From CB) – 65 cm
Front Neck drop – 6 cm
Height of high neck – 6 cm
Rules : (Body length - Front neck drop) – 2% to 3% + Height of high neck
= ( 65 – 6) -2% + 6
= ( 59 ) – 2% + 6
= 57.82 + 6
= 63.82 cm = 64 cm
Moreover, the rules is not always remain fixed, its may vary depends on practical situations.
However, I always advise that you must confirm the zipper measurement with your cutting master & production manager before place an order.
What is AQL (Acceptable Quality Level)
The
“AQL tables” are statistical tools at the disposal of buyers (for
product inspections). They help determine two key elements:
How many samples should be inspected?
Where is the limit between acceptability and refusal, when it comes to defective products?
The need for an objective measurement of quality
In virtually every production batch, there will be defective products. It is true even after the manufacturer has checked each individual product and has repaired the defective ones.
Thus, in a supplier/buyer relationship, the supplier cannot be expected to deliver defect-free goods. However, the buyer wants to control the quality of purchased goods, since he does not want too many defects. But what does “too many” mean?
How to set the limit between acceptability and refusal in a way that can be agreed upon and measured?
Definition and application of ‘AQL’
The limit, as described above, is called the ‘AQL’. It stands for ‘Acceptance Quality Limit’, and is defined as the “quality level that is the worst tolerable” (ISO 2859 standard).
For example: “I want no more than 1.5% defective items in the whole order quantity” means the AQL is 1.5%.
How many samples should be inspected?
Where is the limit between acceptability and refusal, when it comes to defective products?
The need for an objective measurement of quality
In virtually every production batch, there will be defective products. It is true even after the manufacturer has checked each individual product and has repaired the defective ones.
Thus, in a supplier/buyer relationship, the supplier cannot be expected to deliver defect-free goods. However, the buyer wants to control the quality of purchased goods, since he does not want too many defects. But what does “too many” mean?
How to set the limit between acceptability and refusal in a way that can be agreed upon and measured?
Definition and application of ‘AQL’
The limit, as described above, is called the ‘AQL’. It stands for ‘Acceptance Quality Limit’, and is defined as the “quality level that is the worst tolerable” (ISO 2859 standard).
For example: “I want no more than 1.5% defective items in the whole order quantity” means the AQL is 1.5%.
Fabric Cnsumption Calculation Formula For Pant
There are two ways to calculate the fabric consumption:
1. Mathematical
2. By using Marker planning (Its best for accurate calculation).
I am explaining here the Mathematical one:
To do this you have to have sample in your hand. I have one in my hand now and
That has below sizes:
Waist = 32″
Hip = 44″
Thigh = 26″
Bottom = 18″
Length = 42″
We have to add sewing allowance with that and it should be 2″
Here goes the general formula:
Width =(Waist+Hip)/2 + (Thigh+Bottom)/2
=(32″+44″)/2 + (26″+18″)/2
=60″
Length = 42″
So total requirement is = Length X Width
= 42″ X 60″
= 2520 sqr inch
Let’s assume the width of the fabric role is 56″
so, 2520″/56″ = 45″
= 45″/36″
= 1.25 yrds ( 1 Yrd= 36″)
So per doz. it will take = (1.25 X 12)+ 3% = 15.45 Yrds.
1. Mathematical
2. By using Marker planning (Its best for accurate calculation).
I am explaining here the Mathematical one:
To do this you have to have sample in your hand. I have one in my hand now and
That has below sizes:
Waist = 32″
Hip = 44″
Thigh = 26″
Bottom = 18″
Length = 42″
We have to add sewing allowance with that and it should be 2″
Here goes the general formula:
Width =(Waist+Hip)/2 + (Thigh+Bottom)/2
=(32″+44″)/2 + (26″+18″)/2
=60″
Length = 42″
So total requirement is = Length X Width
= 42″ X 60″
= 2520 sqr inch
Let’s assume the width of the fabric role is 56″
so, 2520″/56″ = 45″
= 45″/36″
= 1.25 yrds ( 1 Yrd= 36″)
So per doz. it will take = (1.25 X 12)+ 3% = 15.45 Yrds.
Fabric Consumption Calculation of a Basic Shirt
Back Part
30.5”” (Body Length) X 27.5” (1/2 Chest) / 36”X 44” ( Fabric Width) 0.529 YDS
26” (Yoke Length) X 7” (Yoke Width) X 2 (Double Part) / 36” X 44” 0.229 YDS
32” (Body Length) X 16.5” (1/2 Chest) X 2 (Double Part / 36” X 44” 0.666 YDS
Front Part
32” (Body Length) X 16.5” (1/2 Chest) X 2 (Double Part) / 36” X 44” 0.666 YDS
Sleeve
23.5” (Sleeve Length) X 25” (Arm Hole) X 2 (Double Part) 36” X 44” 0.741YDS
12” (Cuff Length) X 3” ( Cuff Width) X 4 ( 2 X2 Parts) / 36” X 44” 0.99 YDS
Collar
21.5” ( Collar Band Length) X 2” ( Band Width) X 2 ( Double Part) / 36” X 44” 0.067 YDS
21.5” ( Collar Band Length ) X 2” ( Band Width) X 2 ( Double) / 36” X 44” 0.054 YDS
Pocket
8” ( Pocket Length) X 6” ( Pocket Width) / 36” X 44” 0.03 YDS
Total Fabric Consumption 2.406 YDS
Fabric Consumption Calculation of a Knit T-Shirt
Back Part
75 cm ( length) x 50 cm ( Chest width) 3750 scm
Front Part
75 cm ( Front length) x 50 cm ( Front chest width) 3750 scm
Sleeve
24 cm ( Sleeve length) x 40 cm ( Armhole width) x 2 ( 2 sleeves) 1920 scm
Total Fabrics Consumption 9420 scm
Let us make the 9420 scm into Meters than Kg:
9420 scm divided by 10000 scm ( 100 x 100 = 10000 scm) 0.942 m
Let us say 1 square meter fabric weight 140 gm
140 gm divided by 1000 0.14 kg
0.942 m fabric weight ( 0.942 x 0.14) 0.13188 kg
1 Pc Knit T Shirt Weight 0.13188 Kg
Therefore, 12 Pcs Knit T Shirt Weight (0.13188 X 12) 1.59 Kg
Cost Calculation System
During the fixation of price following notes are to be followed carefully:
Cost of fabric Cost of accessories /Doz. garments.
C. M (Cost of manufacturing)/Doz. Garments
Cost of transportation from factory to sea port or airport.
Clearing & forwarding cost
Overhead Cost.
Commission/Profit.
30.5”” (Body Length) X 27.5” (1/2 Chest) / 36”X 44” ( Fabric Width) 0.529 YDS
26” (Yoke Length) X 7” (Yoke Width) X 2 (Double Part) / 36” X 44” 0.229 YDS
32” (Body Length) X 16.5” (1/2 Chest) X 2 (Double Part / 36” X 44” 0.666 YDS
Front Part
32” (Body Length) X 16.5” (1/2 Chest) X 2 (Double Part) / 36” X 44” 0.666 YDS
Sleeve
23.5” (Sleeve Length) X 25” (Arm Hole) X 2 (Double Part) 36” X 44” 0.741YDS
12” (Cuff Length) X 3” ( Cuff Width) X 4 ( 2 X2 Parts) / 36” X 44” 0.99 YDS
Collar
21.5” ( Collar Band Length) X 2” ( Band Width) X 2 ( Double Part) / 36” X 44” 0.067 YDS
21.5” ( Collar Band Length ) X 2” ( Band Width) X 2 ( Double) / 36” X 44” 0.054 YDS
8” ( Pocket Length) X 6” ( Pocket Width) / 36” X 44” 0.03 YDS
Total Fabric Consumption 2.406 YDS
Fabric Consumption Calculation of a Knit T-Shirt
Back Part
75 cm ( length) x 50 cm ( Chest width) 3750 scm
Front Part
75 cm ( Front length) x 50 cm ( Front chest width) 3750 scm
Sleeve
24 cm ( Sleeve length) x 40 cm ( Armhole width) x 2 ( 2 sleeves) 1920 scm
Total Fabrics Consumption 9420 scm
Let us make the 9420 scm into Meters than Kg:
9420 scm divided by 10000 scm ( 100 x 100 = 10000 scm) 0.942 m
Let us say 1 square meter fabric weight 140 gm
140 gm divided by 1000 0.14 kg
0.942 m fabric weight ( 0.942 x 0.14) 0.13188 kg
1 Pc Knit T Shirt Weight 0.13188 Kg
Therefore, 12 Pcs Knit T Shirt Weight (0.13188 X 12) 1.59 Kg
Cost Calculation System
During the fixation of price following notes are to be followed carefully:
Cost of fabric Cost of accessories /Doz. garments.
C. M (Cost of manufacturing)/Doz. Garments
Cost of transportation from factory to sea port or airport.
Clearing & forwarding cost
Overhead Cost.
Commission/Profit.
Event Procurement
Deliver cost savings through minimized risk, smarter procurement and an optimized supply chain
Enable customers to focus on their core business instead of trying to handle indirect, non-core expenditure Offer a global supply chain network with knowledge of suppliers in local and emerging economies
Reduce the costs and risks associated with sourcing non-core goods from new geographies, including emerging markets
Manage tenders for specific and individual projects on the customer’s behalf
Co-ordinate management of a transaction at every stage of the supply chain, ensuring that quality and lead-times are managed and monitored
Maximize customer revenues by meeting delivery promises through superior reliability
Deliver local market requirements such as customs and compliance management
Procure goods that enable customers to fulfill their corporate social responsibility requirements, an area of increasing stakeholder scrutiny.
Event has a track record of delivering substantial savings through the effective implementation and operation of best in class procurement.
We help organizations in getting the best out of the systems they have implemented by driving the process changes, both internally and with suppliers that result in the real benefits being achieved.
Event has developed and implemented a number of innovative outsourced procurement models that enable our clients to realise the savings opportunities across a wide range of categories without the need to acquire rare category expertise or implement niche technology solutions.
Our outsourced procurement services include:
Portfolio solutions where Event provide the procurement resources to manage some or all of a client’s categories. This approach allows the client’s staff to focus on core categories (typically direct spend) while reaping the benefits of a focused, expert approach to non-core categories. Event deploys a core team to provide day-to-day management and additional expertise to support specific activities and categories.
Category solutions that focus on a single major category, providing a bespoke operational service along side strategic supplier management. This may also include the aggregation of spend across Event clients to bring scale benefits to all parties.
We achieve these outstanding results through a combination of the following:
Outstanding purchasing skills and experience. Building on our deep, practical category knowledge, our team has extensive purchasing experience.
A knowledge base of suppliers and benchmark data. As a result of our ongoing benchmarking studies carried out in partnership with major public and private sector organizations, we have developed a wealth of clearly structured and easily comparable data to help speed up the process of quantifying the opportunities available for our clients. This coupled with a continually updated supplier knowledge base provides the basis for accurate and informed decision-making.
Proprietary procurement technology.
Agility and creativity. While we bring a wealth of experience, skills and tools, we recognize that every organization is different and the same solution does not work for everyone. Creativity runs through all of our work and training. Our agility is reflected in the commercial models we operate with our clients, from flat fee to full gain share, our arrangements see us rewarded for delivering auditable results that are often ten to twenty times our fees.
Enable customers to focus on their core business instead of trying to handle indirect, non-core expenditure Offer a global supply chain network with knowledge of suppliers in local and emerging economies
Reduce the costs and risks associated with sourcing non-core goods from new geographies, including emerging markets
Manage tenders for specific and individual projects on the customer’s behalf
Co-ordinate management of a transaction at every stage of the supply chain, ensuring that quality and lead-times are managed and monitored
Maximize customer revenues by meeting delivery promises through superior reliability
Deliver local market requirements such as customs and compliance management
Procure goods that enable customers to fulfill their corporate social responsibility requirements, an area of increasing stakeholder scrutiny.
Event has a track record of delivering substantial savings through the effective implementation and operation of best in class procurement.
We help organizations in getting the best out of the systems they have implemented by driving the process changes, both internally and with suppliers that result in the real benefits being achieved.
Event has developed and implemented a number of innovative outsourced procurement models that enable our clients to realise the savings opportunities across a wide range of categories without the need to acquire rare category expertise or implement niche technology solutions.
Our outsourced procurement services include:
Portfolio solutions where Event provide the procurement resources to manage some or all of a client’s categories. This approach allows the client’s staff to focus on core categories (typically direct spend) while reaping the benefits of a focused, expert approach to non-core categories. Event deploys a core team to provide day-to-day management and additional expertise to support specific activities and categories.
Category solutions that focus on a single major category, providing a bespoke operational service along side strategic supplier management. This may also include the aggregation of spend across Event clients to bring scale benefits to all parties.
We achieve these outstanding results through a combination of the following:
Outstanding purchasing skills and experience. Building on our deep, practical category knowledge, our team has extensive purchasing experience.
A knowledge base of suppliers and benchmark data. As a result of our ongoing benchmarking studies carried out in partnership with major public and private sector organizations, we have developed a wealth of clearly structured and easily comparable data to help speed up the process of quantifying the opportunities available for our clients. This coupled with a continually updated supplier knowledge base provides the basis for accurate and informed decision-making.
Proprietary procurement technology.
Agility and creativity. While we bring a wealth of experience, skills and tools, we recognize that every organization is different and the same solution does not work for everyone. Creativity runs through all of our work and training. Our agility is reflected in the commercial models we operate with our clients, from flat fee to full gain share, our arrangements see us rewarded for delivering auditable results that are often ten to twenty times our fees.
What are corresponding parts?
Corresponding
parts can be described using many different examples. I'll use right
triangles. By definition, one of the interior angles of a right triangle
is 90o. Therefore the other two interior angles of a right triangle
must add up to 90o since the sum of all three interior angles of a
triangle is equal to 180o. In fact, the two corresponding angles of any
other right triangle must add up to 90o. Those angles are corresponding
parts of a right triangle. The 90o angle is another, albeit different,
corresponding part of a right triangle.
This can be generalized to pretty much anything you're talking about as long as what your talking about has parts. Take a person's face for example. I have blue eyes. You may have green eyes. Green would be the color of your corresponding facial feature to my blue.
This can be generalized to pretty much anything you're talking about as long as what your talking about has parts. Take a person's face for example. I have blue eyes. You may have green eyes. Green would be the color of your corresponding facial feature to my blue.
What is merchandising philosophy?
Merchandising
philosophy is that guide all merchandise decisions a retailer makes
including: Target market, store type, competitive advantage, costs,
competitors and product trends.
Table Of Button Size Measurement
Size:
Button size lignes(L) or millimeter(MM) for diameter
1Lignes=0.625 MM 1MM=1/25 INCH
12L=7.5 MM =5/16"
13L=8.0 MM =5/16"
14L=9.0 MM =11/32"
15L=9.5 MM =3/8"
16L=10.0 MM =13/32"
17L=10.5 MM =7/16"
18L=11.5 MM =15/32"
20L=12.5 MM =1/2" 22L=14.0 MM =9/16"
24L=15.0 MM =5/8"
26L=16.0 MM =21/32"
28L=18.0 MM =23/32"
30L=19.0 MM =3/4"
32L=20.0 MM =13/16"
34L=21.0 MM =27/32"
36L=23.0 MM =7/8" 40L=25.0 MM =1"
44L=28.0 MM =1-3/32"
45L=30.0 MM =1-3/16"
54L=34.0 MM =1-5/16"
60L=38.0 MM =1-1/2"
64L=40.0 MM =1-9/16"
Remarks: Measurement of lignes is not exactly 100% equal to MM.
Button Diameter:
For Button Size,Measure the outer largest diameter
Measure inside diameter for Belt use
**NOTE:For general.USAGE,INCH or MM is for buckle,as for button,lignes or MM is used.
Button size lignes(L) or millimeter(MM) for diameter
1Lignes=0.625 MM 1MM=1/25 INCH
12L=7.5 MM =5/16"
13L=8.0 MM =5/16"
14L=9.0 MM =11/32"
15L=9.5 MM =3/8"
16L=10.0 MM =13/32"
17L=10.5 MM =7/16"
18L=11.5 MM =15/32"
20L=12.5 MM =1/2" 22L=14.0 MM =9/16"
24L=15.0 MM =5/8"
26L=16.0 MM =21/32"
28L=18.0 MM =23/32"
30L=19.0 MM =3/4"
32L=20.0 MM =13/16"
34L=21.0 MM =27/32"
36L=23.0 MM =7/8" 40L=25.0 MM =1"
44L=28.0 MM =1-3/32"
45L=30.0 MM =1-3/16"
54L=34.0 MM =1-5/16"
60L=38.0 MM =1-1/2"
64L=40.0 MM =1-9/16"
Remarks: Measurement of lignes is not exactly 100% equal to MM.
Button Diameter:
For Button Size,Measure the outer largest diameter
Measure inside diameter for Belt use
**NOTE:For general.USAGE,INCH or MM is for buckle,as for button,lignes or MM is used.
How to Calculate Thread Consumption for Garments?
There
is a standard formula for determining thread consumption. In that
formula you will get multiplying factors according to machine type and
stitch class. To determine thread consumption you just need to multiply
seam length with that factors. This way one can estimate total thread
requirement for making a garment.
Actual thread consumption for a unit length of seam depends on following factors.
1.Stitch Classes
2.Stitches per inches (SPI)
3.Thickness of the seam (fabric thickness)
4.Thread tension
5. Thread count (thickness of sewing thread)
So you are suggested to calculate garment thread consumption by your own. You can develop multiplying factor according to your product categories and requirement using following steps.
Also Read: Thread Consumption Calculation Process is Simplified
Step 1: To calculate thread ratio, you need a sewing machine, fabric and sewing thread that will be used for bulk production. For fabric and thread you can take similar thickness and same thread count in case actual is not available.
Step 2: Sew a seam of 12 cms long and take 10 cms seam out of it by trimming 1 cm from both edges.
Step 3: Unravel both needle thread and bobbin thread from the seam. Remove crimp from the unraveled thread and measure its length in cm. Generally it will be higher than the seam length. Now find the multiplying factor by dividing thread length with seam length. Assume unraveled needle thread length is 12.5 cm then needle thread multiplying factor is 12.5/10 or 1.25.
Using this method you can find out any types of machines’ thread consumption factors.
Step 4: Once you have consumption factors then it is easy to calculate total thread consumption. Measure seam length of all operations of the garment and get thread requirement by multiplying thread consumption factor. Add thread wastage 5% for the thread that trim out from each ends of the seam.
For quick reference you can follow the following thread consumption ratios. Source: Coats thread consumption guide.
If you want to refer ready made thread consumption factors then refer to Coats and A&E's Technical bulletins.
Actual thread consumption for a unit length of seam depends on following factors.
1.Stitch Classes
2.Stitches per inches (SPI)
3.Thickness of the seam (fabric thickness)
4.Thread tension
5. Thread count (thickness of sewing thread)
So you are suggested to calculate garment thread consumption by your own. You can develop multiplying factor according to your product categories and requirement using following steps.
Also Read: Thread Consumption Calculation Process is Simplified
Step 1: To calculate thread ratio, you need a sewing machine, fabric and sewing thread that will be used for bulk production. For fabric and thread you can take similar thickness and same thread count in case actual is not available.
Step 2: Sew a seam of 12 cms long and take 10 cms seam out of it by trimming 1 cm from both edges.
Step 3: Unravel both needle thread and bobbin thread from the seam. Remove crimp from the unraveled thread and measure its length in cm. Generally it will be higher than the seam length. Now find the multiplying factor by dividing thread length with seam length. Assume unraveled needle thread length is 12.5 cm then needle thread multiplying factor is 12.5/10 or 1.25.
Using this method you can find out any types of machines’ thread consumption factors.
Step 4: Once you have consumption factors then it is easy to calculate total thread consumption. Measure seam length of all operations of the garment and get thread requirement by multiplying thread consumption factor. Add thread wastage 5% for the thread that trim out from each ends of the seam.
For quick reference you can follow the following thread consumption ratios. Source: Coats thread consumption guide.
If you want to refer ready made thread consumption factors then refer to Coats and A&E's Technical bulletins.
Sampling Stages in Apparel Manufacturing
Broadly
garment samples are categorized as development samples and production
samples. Samples that is made in development stage are as following -
1.Proto Sample
2.FIT sample
3.Salesman Sample/Photo shot Sample
4.Size set Sample
5.Pre-production Sample
In production stage factory need to submit few more samples that includes
1.Top of Production Sample
2.Shipment Sample
--------------------------------
1. Proto Sample: This samples are proto type of new design created by designers. This is the first sample in product development stage. Proto sample is made to communicate the design of a style or a line or to present garment structure. In proto samples fit and fabric detailing is not been considered.
2. FIT Sample: Once proto sample is approved, FIT is being made with actual measurement. Modification on the pattern is done to get desired fit of the garment. FIT is one of the most important factor to be considered during sample development. FIT sample is being tested on live model or Dress form for to verify garment fit and fall.
3. Salesman Sample: Salesman samples are made to put on display in the retail showroom. Salesman sample (SMS) are displayed for assessing customer's feedback and according to customers response buyers forecast demand of an particular style. Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and accessories. Buyer pays for salesman samples to the developer.
4. Size set Sample: The purpose of the size set is to check fit of the garment in different sizes. In this stage factory develops samples in multiple sizes. Generally, buyers ask size set sample in jump sizes, like S, L, XXL. Buyer check size set sample and give feedback to factory if anything need to be corrected.
5. Pre-production Sample: All the above samples are made in sampling department. Buyer wants pre-production sample (PP sample) to be made in actual production line, so that operators know what are they going to make. This sample is made with actual fabric, trims and accessories and made by sewing line tailors. PP sample must be approved by buyer or buying house merchants (technical persons) prior to proceeding actual production.
6. Top of Production Sample (TOP sample): Once production is online, few pieces is taken out in the middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP sample. All buyers does not asked for TOP sample. Purpose is to cross-check whether factory is following PP sample specification or not.
7. Shipment Sample: When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-3 finished and packed pieces with all packing details are kept for future reference. Shipment sample is kept by factory merchants and buyer's merchant. The approved shipment is sent directly to warehouse and merchants at the buyer do not get garment out of the shipment. That is why they keep shipment sample for future reference.
1.Proto Sample
2.FIT sample
3.Salesman Sample/Photo shot Sample
4.Size set Sample
5.Pre-production Sample
In production stage factory need to submit few more samples that includes
1.Top of Production Sample
2.Shipment Sample
--------------------------------
1. Proto Sample: This samples are proto type of new design created by designers. This is the first sample in product development stage. Proto sample is made to communicate the design of a style or a line or to present garment structure. In proto samples fit and fabric detailing is not been considered.
2. FIT Sample: Once proto sample is approved, FIT is being made with actual measurement. Modification on the pattern is done to get desired fit of the garment. FIT is one of the most important factor to be considered during sample development. FIT sample is being tested on live model or Dress form for to verify garment fit and fall.
3. Salesman Sample: Salesman samples are made to put on display in the retail showroom. Salesman sample (SMS) are displayed for assessing customer's feedback and according to customers response buyers forecast demand of an particular style. Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and accessories. Buyer pays for salesman samples to the developer.
4. Size set Sample: The purpose of the size set is to check fit of the garment in different sizes. In this stage factory develops samples in multiple sizes. Generally, buyers ask size set sample in jump sizes, like S, L, XXL. Buyer check size set sample and give feedback to factory if anything need to be corrected.
5. Pre-production Sample: All the above samples are made in sampling department. Buyer wants pre-production sample (PP sample) to be made in actual production line, so that operators know what are they going to make. This sample is made with actual fabric, trims and accessories and made by sewing line tailors. PP sample must be approved by buyer or buying house merchants (technical persons) prior to proceeding actual production.
6. Top of Production Sample (TOP sample): Once production is online, few pieces is taken out in the middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP sample. All buyers does not asked for TOP sample. Purpose is to cross-check whether factory is following PP sample specification or not.
7. Shipment Sample: When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-3 finished and packed pieces with all packing details are kept for future reference. Shipment sample is kept by factory merchants and buyer's merchant. The approved shipment is sent directly to warehouse and merchants at the buyer do not get garment out of the shipment. That is why they keep shipment sample for future reference.
Pricing Terminologies used in Garment Export Business
Free on Board (FOB):
In garment exporting, pricing of the garments mostly quoted on FOB. FOB is defined as a term of sale under which the price invoiced or quoted by an exporter manufacturer or a buying agency includes all charges up to placing the goods on board a ship at the port of departure specified by the buyer. It is also called as collect freight, freight collect, or freight forward. FOB is also abbreviated as freight on board.
Cost, Insurance, and Freight (CIF):
In many supplying countries pricing is prepared based on CIF. CIF is a shorthand term for signifying that the price invoiced or quoted by an exporter includes insurance and all other charges up to the named port of destination.
Cut, make and Trim (CMT):
In the apparel industry the buyer needs to assure the quality of raw materials. Textile fabrics of the quality or nature demanded by the buyers may not be available in the sourcing country and raw materials may be required to import. In many instances, the buyer takes on the task of purchasing and shipping the raw materials for the apparel production facility. Buyer only pays a fee to the factory for sewing, trimming, and manufacturing the final goods which is named as CMT. The finished goods are then shipped to the buyer.
Secondly when a larger manufacturer uses production capacity of the subcontractors and job workers, subcontractors are paid for CMT only.
In garment exporting, pricing of the garments mostly quoted on FOB. FOB is defined as a term of sale under which the price invoiced or quoted by an exporter manufacturer or a buying agency includes all charges up to placing the goods on board a ship at the port of departure specified by the buyer. It is also called as collect freight, freight collect, or freight forward. FOB is also abbreviated as freight on board.
Cost, Insurance, and Freight (CIF):
In many supplying countries pricing is prepared based on CIF. CIF is a shorthand term for signifying that the price invoiced or quoted by an exporter includes insurance and all other charges up to the named port of destination.
Cut, make and Trim (CMT):
In the apparel industry the buyer needs to assure the quality of raw materials. Textile fabrics of the quality or nature demanded by the buyers may not be available in the sourcing country and raw materials may be required to import. In many instances, the buyer takes on the task of purchasing and shipping the raw materials for the apparel production facility. Buyer only pays a fee to the factory for sewing, trimming, and manufacturing the final goods which is named as CMT. The finished goods are then shipped to the buyer.
Secondly when a larger manufacturer uses production capacity of the subcontractors and job workers, subcontractors are paid for CMT only.
Job Responsibilities of a Production Merchant in a Garment Export House
Based
on job responsibility and kind of works merchants are primarily
categorized as sampling merchants and production merchants. Where a
sampling merchant deals with sampling of styles, a production merchant
is responsible for the everything to run an order smoothly - from
material requirement sheet preparation to handing over shipment to buyer. However job responsibility may very based on factory size and organization structure of the company.
Job responsibilities of a production merchant are as following
1.Making production Time and action calendar - based on the process flow of an order merchants prepare time and action calendar and indicates who is responsible for the task. This helps merchant to execute an order whether it is on time or behind schedule. Merchants chase department who are running late.
2.Preparing Bill of material and handover it to sourcing department - Based on tech pack (technical sheet), merchant prepares material requirement sheet. In some cases, merchants develop and purchase few trim by themselves.
3.Execution of sourcing trims / accessories - merchants do follow up with supplier for the raw material.
4.Preparing production file - Prepares production file with details documents, approvals, samples and swatches and comments on sample from buyer.
5.Conduct PP meeting with quality team and production team - merchants conduct pre-production (PP) meeting with production team and quality team. In this meeting merchants discuss style construction details, production plan, PCD and handover production file to the production team. One copy of production file is also made for quality team.
6.Giving approval of printing, embroidery production and other subcontracting work.
7.Execution of orders whether it is running on time.
8.Coordination with buyer or buying house if any clarification is required during production.
9.Giving clarification to production and quality team if required related to style workmanship/trims etc.
10.Coordinating with buying house QA or 3rd Party QA for initial/mid and final inspection of shipment.
11.Coordination with shipping and documentation department for forwarding the approved shipment.
12.Keeping track of style status and updating the same to top management and buyer representatives.
Job responsibilities of a production merchant are as following
1.Making production Time and action calendar - based on the process flow of an order merchants prepare time and action calendar and indicates who is responsible for the task. This helps merchant to execute an order whether it is on time or behind schedule. Merchants chase department who are running late.
2.Preparing Bill of material and handover it to sourcing department - Based on tech pack (technical sheet), merchant prepares material requirement sheet. In some cases, merchants develop and purchase few trim by themselves.
3.Execution of sourcing trims / accessories - merchants do follow up with supplier for the raw material.
4.Preparing production file - Prepares production file with details documents, approvals, samples and swatches and comments on sample from buyer.
5.Conduct PP meeting with quality team and production team - merchants conduct pre-production (PP) meeting with production team and quality team. In this meeting merchants discuss style construction details, production plan, PCD and handover production file to the production team. One copy of production file is also made for quality team.
6.Giving approval of printing, embroidery production and other subcontracting work.
7.Execution of orders whether it is running on time.
8.Coordination with buyer or buying house if any clarification is required during production.
9.Giving clarification to production and quality team if required related to style workmanship/trims etc.
10.Coordinating with buying house QA or 3rd Party QA for initial/mid and final inspection of shipment.
11.Coordination with shipping and documentation department for forwarding the approved shipment.
12.Keeping track of style status and updating the same to top management and buyer representatives.
Time and Action calendar Format for Production Merchants
Time
and Action (TNA) calendar is one of the most important tools for
managing a project. In garment manufacturing each order is not less than
a project to a merchant. Because, from order receiving to order
completion involve number of tasks of various duration and requirement
of resources. Few tasks come one after another and others move at
the same time. Like number of processes, lot of people are involved to
accomplish an order. Secondly each order is unique in terms of process
and time demand. So, a detailed plan with well defined responsibility is
must for each orders to finish it before time or on time.
What is a Time and Action calendar?
Normally merchants prepare a plan in a spreadsheet listing down key processes in one column and planned date of action for each processes is noted in another. This planning sheet is called time and action calendar. Once TNA calendar is made, merchant can easily list down her daily 'to do list' for the day and start doing work one by one. According to TNA schedule processes are executed on daily basis to track whether an order is on track or getting delayed.
Now the question is "How to prepare a TNA calendar in a given format for an order and How to maintain the same with less effort?"
How to prepare a Time and Action calendar?
In this article I have explained two formats used for time and action planning - one is for detailed scheduling of orders with defined responsibility and another one is for quick follow up of the multiple orders. It is not that you have to use both the formats at the same time. It depends on individuals - you can use both or one out of two. The main purpose of preparing and maintaining a TNA calendar in to improve performance in managing processes as per plan. If each stage of an order is controlled then most of time you can finish an order on time. I have briefly explained how to develop these TNA calendar formats and maintain the same.
In first TNA calendar format (Format 1) planning is made for single style with detailed tasks, schedules, job responsibility and remarks. Steps to be followed during making TNA calendar are listed below.
Format 1: Time & Action calendar (For Single Style/Order)
1.Create an table as the above format (Format 1) in a spreadsheet in your computer. Add header as per your need or just copy the above format.
2.Add details of the order like, style name, style description, order receiving date, ex-factory date etc.
3.In the column "Key Processes" list down processes as per your style requirement. Go through style detailing to identify all key processes to be involved. Few processes are mentioned in tech pack and buyer comments and some processes to be understood from the style (physical sample).
4.Do backward and forward planning for deciding planned date for the task. Take advice from respective department heads for the capacity availability and time requirement for the processes. Then add dates against the tasks. Where processes required multiple days add planned completion date.
5.Note the name of the person or department who is responsible for the task.
6.Keep "Actual date of start and end" column blank during TNA calendar preparation.
7.Distribute printed or soft copy of final TNA calendar to the all persons you have mentioned in "responsibility column.
How to Maintain a Time and Action calendar?"
From my real life experience, I found that it is easy to make a TNA calendar but maintaining the same is very difficult task. But you have to maintain it on regular basis. Otherwise, there is no use of a TNA calendar.
1.Take signature of responsible person when you distribute TNA calendar to them. It is assumed that once they sign they agree on your plan. So that on later nobody shows disagreement on your plan.
2.Take print out of each calendar, make a bunch and keep it on your desk for easy access.
3.When you make days plan "To do lists" refer to the bunch of TNA calendars. At the same time update each calendars by marking done or not done on printed copy. Fill actual start and end date for the completed processes.
4.Where you find something is getting delayed notify the respective department or the person and ask for the reason for delay. And check if the delay is manageable. If any delayed process is not manageable (complete on due date), next processes will move forward. In this case you may need to make a new plan for rest of tasks.
5.Update your new plan in original TNA calendar.
6.Update your spreadsheet (TNA calendars) at the end of the day. If daily update is not possible then do it as per your convenience. But it must be done on regular interval.
Second Format
In second format (Format 2) scheduling of multiple styles is done in a single sheet. It helps you to keep eye on each order quickly. All key processes is listed in the header row with columns for start and end of the process. Against each style you have two rows for planned dates and actual dates for the tasks. This format reduces no. of sheets when a merchant handles dozens of orders. The difference is that you don't keep name of the responsible persons or departments.
Format 2: Time & Action calendar (Multiple styles per sheet)
Click on the image to enlarge image view
The time and action calendar preparation and maintaining it is same as the first format. This TNA calendar format is more handy as you have carry less fewer sheet of printout than previous one.
If you like to use both format then take print out of second one only. Do all update and modifications on the this format manually. Later update TNA calendar on your computer (Format 1) for easy maintaining.
What is a Time and Action calendar?
Normally merchants prepare a plan in a spreadsheet listing down key processes in one column and planned date of action for each processes is noted in another. This planning sheet is called time and action calendar. Once TNA calendar is made, merchant can easily list down her daily 'to do list' for the day and start doing work one by one. According to TNA schedule processes are executed on daily basis to track whether an order is on track or getting delayed.
Now the question is "How to prepare a TNA calendar in a given format for an order and How to maintain the same with less effort?"
How to prepare a Time and Action calendar?
In this article I have explained two formats used for time and action planning - one is for detailed scheduling of orders with defined responsibility and another one is for quick follow up of the multiple orders. It is not that you have to use both the formats at the same time. It depends on individuals - you can use both or one out of two. The main purpose of preparing and maintaining a TNA calendar in to improve performance in managing processes as per plan. If each stage of an order is controlled then most of time you can finish an order on time. I have briefly explained how to develop these TNA calendar formats and maintain the same.
In first TNA calendar format (Format 1) planning is made for single style with detailed tasks, schedules, job responsibility and remarks. Steps to be followed during making TNA calendar are listed below.
Format 1: Time & Action calendar (For Single Style/Order)
1.Create an table as the above format (Format 1) in a spreadsheet in your computer. Add header as per your need or just copy the above format.
2.Add details of the order like, style name, style description, order receiving date, ex-factory date etc.
3.In the column "Key Processes" list down processes as per your style requirement. Go through style detailing to identify all key processes to be involved. Few processes are mentioned in tech pack and buyer comments and some processes to be understood from the style (physical sample).
4.Do backward and forward planning for deciding planned date for the task. Take advice from respective department heads for the capacity availability and time requirement for the processes. Then add dates against the tasks. Where processes required multiple days add planned completion date.
5.Note the name of the person or department who is responsible for the task.
6.Keep "Actual date of start and end" column blank during TNA calendar preparation.
7.Distribute printed or soft copy of final TNA calendar to the all persons you have mentioned in "responsibility column.
How to Maintain a Time and Action calendar?"
From my real life experience, I found that it is easy to make a TNA calendar but maintaining the same is very difficult task. But you have to maintain it on regular basis. Otherwise, there is no use of a TNA calendar.
1.Take signature of responsible person when you distribute TNA calendar to them. It is assumed that once they sign they agree on your plan. So that on later nobody shows disagreement on your plan.
2.Take print out of each calendar, make a bunch and keep it on your desk for easy access.
3.When you make days plan "To do lists" refer to the bunch of TNA calendars. At the same time update each calendars by marking done or not done on printed copy. Fill actual start and end date for the completed processes.
4.Where you find something is getting delayed notify the respective department or the person and ask for the reason for delay. And check if the delay is manageable. If any delayed process is not manageable (complete on due date), next processes will move forward. In this case you may need to make a new plan for rest of tasks.
5.Update your new plan in original TNA calendar.
6.Update your spreadsheet (TNA calendars) at the end of the day. If daily update is not possible then do it as per your convenience. But it must be done on regular interval.
Second Format
In second format (Format 2) scheduling of multiple styles is done in a single sheet. It helps you to keep eye on each order quickly. All key processes is listed in the header row with columns for start and end of the process. Against each style you have two rows for planned dates and actual dates for the tasks. This format reduces no. of sheets when a merchant handles dozens of orders. The difference is that you don't keep name of the responsible persons or departments.
Format 2: Time & Action calendar (Multiple styles per sheet)
Click on the image to enlarge image view
The time and action calendar preparation and maintaining it is same as the first format. This TNA calendar format is more handy as you have carry less fewer sheet of printout than previous one.
If you like to use both format then take print out of second one only. Do all update and modifications on the this format manually. Later update TNA calendar on your computer (Format 1) for easy maintaining.
How do you calculate woven shirts fabric consumption?
If we see in measurement chart, for size-"L"
1. Center back (CB) lenth is 74 cm,
2. I.E, 74/2.54 inch = 29.13 inc,
3. Sleeve length is 68 cm,
4. I.E, 68/2.54 inch = 26.77 inch,
5. Chest measurement is 58*2 cm = 116 cm,
6. I.E, 1/2 chest is 116/2 = 58 cm. I.E, 58/2.54 inch = 22.84 inch,
Per pc consumption formula is :
(Back length+Sleeve length + 6) * (1/2 chest + 4 ) * 2 / Fabric width * 36 ( in yards )
(Back length+Sleeve length + 6) * (1/2 chest + 4 ) * 2 / Fabric width * 39.37008 ( in meters )
= ( 29.13+26.77+6 ) x ( 22.84+4 ) x 2 / 60 /39.007 =
1. Center back (CB) lenth is 74 cm,
2. I.E, 74/2.54 inch = 29.13 inc,
3. Sleeve length is 68 cm,
4. I.E, 68/2.54 inch = 26.77 inch,
5. Chest measurement is 58*2 cm = 116 cm,
6. I.E, 1/2 chest is 116/2 = 58 cm. I.E, 58/2.54 inch = 22.84 inch,
Per pc consumption formula is :
(Back length+Sleeve length + 6) * (1/2 chest + 4 ) * 2 / Fabric width * 36 ( in yards )
(Back length+Sleeve length + 6) * (1/2 chest + 4 ) * 2 / Fabric width * 39.37008 ( in meters )
= ( 29.13+26.77+6 ) x ( 22.84+4 ) x 2 / 60 /39.007 =
How do you calculate the fabric consumption for knit garments?
Firstly,
you've to know what you going to make or about the measurement? All
measurement has it LENGTH & WIDTH. Equations as bellow-
# Body Length + Sleeve Length + 10 (for folding {sleeve & bottom}) * (Chest width + 4 C.M.) * 2 / 10,000 * G.S.M. (Gram per square meter) Range / 1000 * 12 * 10% (wastages)
= K.G. per Dozen
Firstly, you've to know what you going to make or about the measurement? All measurement has it LENGTH & WIDTH. Equations as bellow-
# Body Length + Sleeve Length + 10 (for folding {sleeve & bottom}) * (Chest width + 4 C.M.) * 2 / 10,000 * G.S.M. (Gram per square meter) Range / 1000 * 12 * 10% (wastages)
= K.G. per Dozen
# Body Length + Sleeve Length + 10 (for folding {sleeve & bottom}) * (Chest width + 4 C.M.) * 2 / 10,000 * G.S.M. (Gram per square meter) Range / 1000 * 12 * 10% (wastages)
= K.G. per Dozen
Firstly, you've to know what you going to make or about the measurement? All measurement has it LENGTH & WIDTH. Equations as bellow-
# Body Length + Sleeve Length + 10 (for folding {sleeve & bottom}) * (Chest width + 4 C.M.) * 2 / 10,000 * G.S.M. (Gram per square meter) Range / 1000 * 12 * 10% (wastages)
= K.G. per Dozen
Apparel Merchandising Knit-Woven-Sweater ,Costing technique in clothing industry
In
order to achieve perfect garment costing, one must know about all the
activities including purchase of fabrics, sewing, packing, transport,
overheads, etc and also about their costs, procedures, advantages and
risk factors.
The Bangladesh textile and apparel industry is very large and diverse, employing 10 million people and accounting for 80 per cent of the country's exports. The apparel industry plays a pivotal role as a key driver of the national economy and has grown to be the most significant contributor to the country's economy over nearly three decades of its existence. However, during last 10 years, the industry's actions, government policies as well as market events have begun to converge, providing several growth opportunities for the sector domestically as well as in the global market.
As the MFA quota-regime ended, Bangladesh presented many opportunities for buyers, suppliers and investors to collaborate with its textile industry, and to profit from the partnership. While the industry recorded a remarkable growth in a protected market environment, it faces a series of challenges that have come to the fore in the post-quota situation, notably in areas such as:
§ Price competitiveness.
§ Faster lead times.
§ High raw material base.
§ Full service offering.
§ Access to market. "A Cost is the value of economic resources used as a result of producing or doing the things costed".
Garments costing
There are two types of garments, namely woven and knitted garments. Shirt, trouser, sarees, bed spreads, blankets, towels and made ups are woven. T-shirts, sweaters, undergarments, pyjamas and socks are knits.
Costing is the deciding factor for fixing of prices and the important thing to follow in all stages like purchase, production, marketing, sales, etc. Also update knowledge about everything related to garments, is essential to make perfect costing.
Costing includes all the activities like purchase of fabrics and accessories, processing and finishing of fabrics, sewing and packing of garments, transport and conveyance, shipping, over heads, banking charges and commissions, etc.
We must be aware that there are always fluctuations in the costs of raw materials and accessories, charges of knitting, processing, finishing, sewing and packing, charges of transport and conveyance. The method of making costing will vary from style to style. As there are many different styles in garments. Hence let us take men's basic T-shirt style as example which is in regular in use.
To find out the costing of a garment, the following things should things be calculated:
§ Fabric consumption.
§ Gross weight of other components of garment.
§ Fabric cost per kg.
§ Fabric cost per garment.
§ Other charges (print, embroidery, etc).
§ Cost of trims (labels, tags, badges, twill tapes, buttons, bows, etc).
§ CMT charges.
§ Cost of accessories (hangers, inner boards, polybags, cartons, etc).
§ Cost of a garment.
§ Price of a garment.
The Bangladesh textile and apparel industry is very large and diverse, employing 10 million people and accounting for 80 per cent of the country's exports. The apparel industry plays a pivotal role as a key driver of the national economy and has grown to be the most significant contributor to the country's economy over nearly three decades of its existence. However, during last 10 years, the industry's actions, government policies as well as market events have begun to converge, providing several growth opportunities for the sector domestically as well as in the global market.
As the MFA quota-regime ended, Bangladesh presented many opportunities for buyers, suppliers and investors to collaborate with its textile industry, and to profit from the partnership. While the industry recorded a remarkable growth in a protected market environment, it faces a series of challenges that have come to the fore in the post-quota situation, notably in areas such as:
§ Price competitiveness.
§ Faster lead times.
§ High raw material base.
§ Full service offering.
§ Access to market. "A Cost is the value of economic resources used as a result of producing or doing the things costed".
Garments costing
There are two types of garments, namely woven and knitted garments. Shirt, trouser, sarees, bed spreads, blankets, towels and made ups are woven. T-shirts, sweaters, undergarments, pyjamas and socks are knits.
Costing is the deciding factor for fixing of prices and the important thing to follow in all stages like purchase, production, marketing, sales, etc. Also update knowledge about everything related to garments, is essential to make perfect costing.
Costing includes all the activities like purchase of fabrics and accessories, processing and finishing of fabrics, sewing and packing of garments, transport and conveyance, shipping, over heads, banking charges and commissions, etc.
We must be aware that there are always fluctuations in the costs of raw materials and accessories, charges of knitting, processing, finishing, sewing and packing, charges of transport and conveyance. The method of making costing will vary from style to style. As there are many different styles in garments. Hence let us take men's basic T-shirt style as example which is in regular in use.
To find out the costing of a garment, the following things should things be calculated:
§ Fabric consumption.
§ Gross weight of other components of garment.
§ Fabric cost per kg.
§ Fabric cost per garment.
§ Other charges (print, embroidery, etc).
§ Cost of trims (labels, tags, badges, twill tapes, buttons, bows, etc).
§ CMT charges.
§ Cost of accessories (hangers, inner boards, polybags, cartons, etc).
§ Cost of a garment.
§ Price of a garment.
Merchandising Files
It is
the most important task for a merchandiser to maintain a complete and
clear file for each order. A standard merchandising file should contain
following items:
1. Check list
2. Cost breakdown
3. Master LC
4. PI, BTB LC
5. Technical sheet including measurement sheet
6. PO (Purchase/Production Order) sheet with color and size break down
7. Sample comments sheets (sample approval & comments received from buyer)
8. Fabric color/shade approval (Labdip/fabric swatches/mail).
9. Approved trim card (approved sample of trims such as main label, care label, hang tag, zipper, button, lace, sewing thread, etc.)
10. Approved embroidery/print strike off (if any)
11. Printed copy of important mails received from and sent to buyer
12. Copy of fabric, yarn & accessories' work order
13. Inventory reports
14. Minutes of the pre-production meeting
15. Printed copy of Time and Action plan prepared by production planning department
16. Packing List
Documents, trim cards should be punched with punching machine to file those in a ring binder. Small poly pouch can be used to put trims that cannot be stapled. Need to insert separator marking related docs so that one can easily find those.
Finally file should be labelled with Buyer Name, Style/Order Number, LC Number, Order Quantity, Ex-factory date etc.
1. Check list
2. Cost breakdown
3. Master LC
4. PI, BTB LC
5. Technical sheet including measurement sheet
6. PO (Purchase/Production Order) sheet with color and size break down
7. Sample comments sheets (sample approval & comments received from buyer)
8. Fabric color/shade approval (Labdip/fabric swatches/mail).
9. Approved trim card (approved sample of trims such as main label, care label, hang tag, zipper, button, lace, sewing thread, etc.)
10. Approved embroidery/print strike off (if any)
11. Printed copy of important mails received from and sent to buyer
12. Copy of fabric, yarn & accessories' work order
13. Inventory reports
14. Minutes of the pre-production meeting
15. Printed copy of Time and Action plan prepared by production planning department
16. Packing List
Documents, trim cards should be punched with punching machine to file those in a ring binder. Small poly pouch can be used to put trims that cannot be stapled. Need to insert separator marking related docs so that one can easily find those.
Finally file should be labelled with Buyer Name, Style/Order Number, LC Number, Order Quantity, Ex-factory date etc.
50 Short Questions for Merchandisers: Test Yourself where do You Stand
In
last few days I have received mails from some of the OCS readers, who
asked me for questions for merchandising interview preparation. This
post is just to guide them what kind of questions probably they would be
asked by interviewers. And to provide them an overview what all things
they need to know as a merchandiser.
I have spent many hours to prepare this question set in past. Most of these questions are related to merchandising job profile and are set based on my personal work experience. Some of the questions are taken from question paper sets by fashion institutes.
Following questions are not only for job seekers but being an experienced merchandiser, you can also test your knowledge by answering following questions. I will publish answers of these question in next week. So keep visiting or subscribe our post to get notification for the answer set.
1. The size ratio of an order of 900 pieces is XS:S:M:L:XL::1:2:3:2:1. According to this ratio average fabric consumption for the style was 1.2 meters. Every size increase, increases the consumption by 10 cm. Due some reason buyer dropped the Size XS and keeps the order quantity same. New size ratio is S:M:L:XL::2:3:3:1. What will be the new average fabric consumption?
a. 1.25 meters
b. 1.20 meters
c. 1.23 meters
d. 1.30 meters
2. Suppose an order of 6000 pieces have four different size ratios as following. Arrange them in descending order average consumption?
a. S:M:L:XL:: 1:2:2:1
b. XS:S:M:L:: 1:1:2:2
c. XS:S:M:L:: 1:2:2:1
d. S:M:L:XL:: 2:2:1:1
3. A shipment is passed with 2.5 AQL by a buyer QA. Suppose after receiving the shipment buyer do re-inspection of the same shipment at their warehouse. What will be the %defective in this inspection?
a. Less than 2.5%
b. More than 2.5%
c. Exactly 2.5%
d. Could be more or less than 2.5%
4. Suppose the average ratio of FOB factors are Fabric:Print&Emb:CMT: overhead: Margin ::12:1:3:1:3. FOB of order is Rs. 400.00. Suddenly, fabric price is hiked by 5% and all other costs remain same. Once FOB is freezed you cannot change it. In this situation what will be the reduction in margin for this order?
a. 10%
b. 20%
c. 30%
d. 50%
5. Match the following left column to right column
a) Cutting
i) Size grading
b) Sampling
ii) TOP sample
c) Finishing
iii) Pre production meeting
d) Sewing
iv) Bundling
e) Merchandising
v) Spotting
6. The finishing manager can’t able to decide whether he will pack the altered pieces or not and he had shorted the garment according to the problems. He asks for decision on following issues from the merchant before handing over the shipment for inspection. Which garment you will permit to add into shipment?
a. Garments with shade variation at sleeve and body
b. Garments with visible mending work
c. Garments with extra length
d. None of the above
7. Color fastness to washing is rated on a scale of ----- to -------
a. 0 to 10
b. 1 to 10
c. -5 to 5
d. 1 to 5
8. Lower the ‘color fastness to wash’ rating, better is the performance.
a. True
b. False
9. What is the full form of AQL,
a. Acceptable Qualification Level
b. Acceptable Quality level
c. Acceptable Quantity level
10. What does CPM stand for? _________________
a. Critical Path Method
b. Crucial Path Method
c. Common Proposed Method
11. Which one of the following paths determines the overall duration of a project in CPM:
a. Longest Path
b. Shortest Path
c. Both together
12. If we have two follow-ups at hand, which of the path’s tasks should be completed on priority:
a. Task on the Shortest Path
b. Task on the Longest Path
c. Task which is having major problem
13. Sewing thread of 50 TKT is thicker than 120 TKT.
a. True
b. False
14. Fabric (knits)
consumption increases when the GSM of the fabric increases.
a. True
b. False
15. If the fabric (woven) width increases from the planned width (while ordering), we could _________ actual fabric consumption
a. Increase
b. Decrease
c. Not be affected
16. Color fastness to washing test is being done during ______________
a. GPT
b. FPT
c. In both stage
d. None of the above stages
17. An Industrial Engineering Department cannot help in garment CM costing more accurately.
a. True
b. False
18. A better time and action calendar (TNA) can result a better control of processes
a. True
b. False
19. What is the full form of SMV?
a. Sewing Minute Value
b. Standard Minute Value
c. Sewing Minute Verified
20. If you book orders more than the factory capacity, then the manufacturing costs are likely to:
a. Increase
b. Decrease
c. Remain unaffected
21. Fabric shrinkage testing gives equivalent results as that of garment shrinkage testing.
a. True
b. False
22. In which sample, does the Buyer confirms the workmanship details:
a. Proto Sample
b. Fit Sample
c. PP Sample
d. TOP Sample
23. The grain line on the garment pattern denotes weft of the fabric
a. True
b. False
24. The average consumption of fabric in washed garment should be _____________ as compared to non-washed same garment?
a. Higher
b. Lower
25. 4 point system of inspection is used to inspect woven garments?
a. True
b. False
26. A bar graph that organizes data in descending order is called _____________ Chart.
a. Bar Chart
b. Pareto Chart
c. Trend Chart
d. Histogram
27.
The following wash care instruction, denotes _________
a. Do not Machine Wash
b. Do not Dry-clean
c. Do not Bleach
28. The following wash care instruction denotes _________
a. Machine Wash
b. Tumble Dry
c. Bleach
29. If the Estimated Average at the time of fabric ordering is greater than actual production average, which of the following would be true:
a. Extra fabric than required, would be ordered
b. Relatively higher price would be quoted to the Buyer
c. Both of the above are true
30. If a fabric lot is having 20 penalty points in 100 square yds, the fabric would be ___________
a. Accepted
b. Rejected
31. What is Fabric Dead Stock?
a. Fabric waste in cutting department
b. Stock of fabric remaining after style completion
c. Stock of defective and hold fabric in fabric department
32. ‘Lbs’ is unit of measurement for ________________
a. Length
b. Weight
c. Volume
33. What do you understand by D.H.U?
a. Defective per Hundred Unit
b. Defects Per Hundred Unit
c. Defective per hundred users
34. How can we control the performance of our vendors?
a. Maintain data for quality and timeliness for vendors
b. Debiting vendors for defective units
c. Telling them to improve
d. By negotiating for the best price
e. Maintain data for quality, timeliness and price for vendors, improving vendor performance, through data analysis
35. Buyers prefer extra shipping quantity as per original size ratio
a. True
b. False
36. Blister packing can be made with
a. Mix of color
b. Mix of sizes
c. Mix of colors and sizes
d. All of the above options
37. Productivity of a factory can be expressed in terms of :
a. Pieces/machine per day
b. Pieces/hour per person
c. Pieces/man-hour
d. All of the above
38. When a light print is needed on a dark base color with smother hand feel. Which printing option is mostly used?
a. Khadi print
b. Discharge print
c. Pigment print
39. In Burnt-out printing, which of the following fiber is burnt in the printing process?
a. Polyester
b. Cotton
40. 1 gross button is equal to ----------------------- buttons
a. 140
b. 40
c. 144
41. Generally shipping department calculates volumetric weight of the packed goods (cartons) for shipping agents. What is the formula for calculating volumetric weight?
a. Total volume of cartons / Total weight
b. Total volume of cartons / 6000
c. Total volume of cartons / 1000
42. If the fabric is having high width variation in the same shade lots, the production average is likely to:
a. Increase
b. Decrease
c. Remain same
43. The unit of measure for the ‘size’ of button is:
a. Cm
b. Inch
c. Ligne
44. Efficiency of a sewing line is calculated as follows:
a. Actual output/ Target output
b. Target output/ Actual Output
45. The problem of pilling is normally in knit garments-
a. True
b. False
46. Give the full form of the following terms:
a) FPT______________
b) GPT_______________
c) CIF _______________
d) LC______________________
e) SKU______________
f) DTM stands for __________________
g) CPL stands for _________________
47. To Sew a Knits Tee which among the following machine is not required
a) Flat lock Machine
b) Over lock Machine
c) Feed of the arm
d) Single needle lock stitch
48. Which is not a summer color
a) Pink
b) White
c) Lemon
d) Black
49. Mark the odd one out :
a) Satin
b) Silk
c) Cotton
d) Nylon
50. The preferred color for baby girl is :
a) Pink
b) Black
c) Blue
d) Orange
You can share, how many questions you can answer in the following comment box. If need any clarification for any of the above question you can write it in the comment box.
I have spent many hours to prepare this question set in past. Most of these questions are related to merchandising job profile and are set based on my personal work experience. Some of the questions are taken from question paper sets by fashion institutes.
Following questions are not only for job seekers but being an experienced merchandiser, you can also test your knowledge by answering following questions. I will publish answers of these question in next week. So keep visiting or subscribe our post to get notification for the answer set.
1. The size ratio of an order of 900 pieces is XS:S:M:L:XL::1:2:3:2:1. According to this ratio average fabric consumption for the style was 1.2 meters. Every size increase, increases the consumption by 10 cm. Due some reason buyer dropped the Size XS and keeps the order quantity same. New size ratio is S:M:L:XL::2:3:3:1. What will be the new average fabric consumption?
a. 1.25 meters
b. 1.20 meters
c. 1.23 meters
d. 1.30 meters
2. Suppose an order of 6000 pieces have four different size ratios as following. Arrange them in descending order average consumption?
a. S:M:L:XL:: 1:2:2:1
b. XS:S:M:L:: 1:1:2:2
c. XS:S:M:L:: 1:2:2:1
d. S:M:L:XL:: 2:2:1:1
3. A shipment is passed with 2.5 AQL by a buyer QA. Suppose after receiving the shipment buyer do re-inspection of the same shipment at their warehouse. What will be the %defective in this inspection?
a. Less than 2.5%
b. More than 2.5%
c. Exactly 2.5%
d. Could be more or less than 2.5%
4. Suppose the average ratio of FOB factors are Fabric:Print&Emb:CMT: overhead: Margin ::12:1:3:1:3. FOB of order is Rs. 400.00. Suddenly, fabric price is hiked by 5% and all other costs remain same. Once FOB is freezed you cannot change it. In this situation what will be the reduction in margin for this order?
a. 10%
b. 20%
c. 30%
d. 50%
5. Match the following left column to right column
a) Cutting
i) Size grading
b) Sampling
ii) TOP sample
c) Finishing
iii) Pre production meeting
d) Sewing
iv) Bundling
e) Merchandising
v) Spotting
6. The finishing manager can’t able to decide whether he will pack the altered pieces or not and he had shorted the garment according to the problems. He asks for decision on following issues from the merchant before handing over the shipment for inspection. Which garment you will permit to add into shipment?
a. Garments with shade variation at sleeve and body
b. Garments with visible mending work
c. Garments with extra length
d. None of the above
7. Color fastness to washing is rated on a scale of ----- to -------
a. 0 to 10
b. 1 to 10
c. -5 to 5
d. 1 to 5
8. Lower the ‘color fastness to wash’ rating, better is the performance.
a. True
b. False
9. What is the full form of AQL,
a. Acceptable Qualification Level
b. Acceptable Quality level
c. Acceptable Quantity level
10. What does CPM stand for? _________________
a. Critical Path Method
b. Crucial Path Method
c. Common Proposed Method
11. Which one of the following paths determines the overall duration of a project in CPM:
a. Longest Path
b. Shortest Path
c. Both together
12. If we have two follow-ups at hand, which of the path’s tasks should be completed on priority:
a. Task on the Shortest Path
b. Task on the Longest Path
c. Task which is having major problem
13. Sewing thread of 50 TKT is thicker than 120 TKT.
a. True
b. False
14. Fabric (knits)
consumption increases when the GSM of the fabric increases.
a. True
b. False
15. If the fabric (woven) width increases from the planned width (while ordering), we could _________ actual fabric consumption
a. Increase
b. Decrease
c. Not be affected
16. Color fastness to washing test is being done during ______________
a. GPT
b. FPT
c. In both stage
d. None of the above stages
17. An Industrial Engineering Department cannot help in garment CM costing more accurately.
a. True
b. False
18. A better time and action calendar (TNA) can result a better control of processes
a. True
b. False
19. What is the full form of SMV?
a. Sewing Minute Value
b. Standard Minute Value
c. Sewing Minute Verified
20. If you book orders more than the factory capacity, then the manufacturing costs are likely to:
a. Increase
b. Decrease
c. Remain unaffected
21. Fabric shrinkage testing gives equivalent results as that of garment shrinkage testing.
a. True
b. False
22. In which sample, does the Buyer confirms the workmanship details:
a. Proto Sample
b. Fit Sample
c. PP Sample
d. TOP Sample
23. The grain line on the garment pattern denotes weft of the fabric
a. True
b. False
24. The average consumption of fabric in washed garment should be _____________ as compared to non-washed same garment?
a. Higher
b. Lower
25. 4 point system of inspection is used to inspect woven garments?
a. True
b. False
26. A bar graph that organizes data in descending order is called _____________ Chart.
a. Bar Chart
b. Pareto Chart
c. Trend Chart
d. Histogram
27.
The following wash care instruction, denotes _________
a. Do not Machine Wash
b. Do not Dry-clean
c. Do not Bleach
28. The following wash care instruction denotes _________
a. Machine Wash
b. Tumble Dry
c. Bleach
29. If the Estimated Average at the time of fabric ordering is greater than actual production average, which of the following would be true:
a. Extra fabric than required, would be ordered
b. Relatively higher price would be quoted to the Buyer
c. Both of the above are true
30. If a fabric lot is having 20 penalty points in 100 square yds, the fabric would be ___________
a. Accepted
b. Rejected
31. What is Fabric Dead Stock?
a. Fabric waste in cutting department
b. Stock of fabric remaining after style completion
c. Stock of defective and hold fabric in fabric department
32. ‘Lbs’ is unit of measurement for ________________
a. Length
b. Weight
c. Volume
33. What do you understand by D.H.U?
a. Defective per Hundred Unit
b. Defects Per Hundred Unit
c. Defective per hundred users
34. How can we control the performance of our vendors?
a. Maintain data for quality and timeliness for vendors
b. Debiting vendors for defective units
c. Telling them to improve
d. By negotiating for the best price
e. Maintain data for quality, timeliness and price for vendors, improving vendor performance, through data analysis
35. Buyers prefer extra shipping quantity as per original size ratio
a. True
b. False
36. Blister packing can be made with
a. Mix of color
b. Mix of sizes
c. Mix of colors and sizes
d. All of the above options
37. Productivity of a factory can be expressed in terms of :
a. Pieces/machine per day
b. Pieces/hour per person
c. Pieces/man-hour
d. All of the above
38. When a light print is needed on a dark base color with smother hand feel. Which printing option is mostly used?
a. Khadi print
b. Discharge print
c. Pigment print
39. In Burnt-out printing, which of the following fiber is burnt in the printing process?
a. Polyester
b. Cotton
40. 1 gross button is equal to ----------------------- buttons
a. 140
b. 40
c. 144
41. Generally shipping department calculates volumetric weight of the packed goods (cartons) for shipping agents. What is the formula for calculating volumetric weight?
a. Total volume of cartons / Total weight
b. Total volume of cartons / 6000
c. Total volume of cartons / 1000
42. If the fabric is having high width variation in the same shade lots, the production average is likely to:
a. Increase
b. Decrease
c. Remain same
43. The unit of measure for the ‘size’ of button is:
a. Cm
b. Inch
c. Ligne
44. Efficiency of a sewing line is calculated as follows:
a. Actual output/ Target output
b. Target output/ Actual Output
45. The problem of pilling is normally in knit garments-
a. True
b. False
46. Give the full form of the following terms:
a) FPT______________
b) GPT_______________
c) CIF _______________
d) LC______________________
e) SKU______________
f) DTM stands for __________________
g) CPL stands for _________________
47. To Sew a Knits Tee which among the following machine is not required
a) Flat lock Machine
b) Over lock Machine
c) Feed of the arm
d) Single needle lock stitch
48. Which is not a summer color
a) Pink
b) White
c) Lemon
d) Black
49. Mark the odd one out :
a) Satin
b) Silk
c) Cotton
d) Nylon
50. The preferred color for baby girl is :
a) Pink
b) Black
c) Blue
d) Orange
You can share, how many questions you can answer in the following comment box. If need any clarification for any of the above question you can write it in the comment box.
Apparel Merchandising and Challenges in Merchandising Job as a Career
Let me explain, what does merchandising mean?
“Merchandising is the business art of matching goods to the needs and preferences of customers to ensure shelf off take". In other word merchandising is the marketing activity responsible for ensuring a product’s desirability, both in qualitative and quantitative.
‘Merchandising’ word is originated from Merchant or Shopkeeper. The duty of the shopkeeper is to arrange right products with right price before a consumer decides to buy or knows about the product from promotion or media. If a merchant fails to supply goods on time or fails to supply the right packaging, customer will go to other shops and buy the products from competitors, who keep the desired product in stock.
Merchandising is a process or function for what to buy and how to buy for sale. Merchandising is part of marketing process where 4 P's are required to complete the process of marketing.
1. Product,
2. Price,
3. Place/distribution
4. Promotion
In the above, the term ‘Merchandising’ has been explained in general. In a moment I will explain about apparel merchandising.
When it comes to explain about apparel merchandising, this is to bring the orders by using different marketing tools, arranging raw materials according to buyer’s specifications, producing goods with quality standard in a specified time with a strong follow up, ship out the goods and receiving the payments. After completing everything, closing the order file and starting the marketing activity again. This is Apparel Merchandising as a whole.
Apparel Merchandising Activity Cycle:
Common merchandising activities are displayed in following diagram in a cycling from.
Professional qualities of a Merchandiser:
Following are key skill sets, a merchandiser need to acquire to execute his/her responsibilities successfully.
• Should have computer skill
• Good communication skills written and verbal
• Good knowledge in mathematics
• Always be Courageous and Active
• Knowledge of different fabrics
• Knowledge on Garment production
• Knowledge on washing
• Knowledge on banking, commercial, shipping etc
• Need to have at least a related training etc.
• Other important qualities are – able to take high mental pressure
• Must take responsibility for task undertaken
Responsibilities of a Merchandiser:
A merchandiser is responsible for the following tasks but not limited to these only.
• Marketing
• Costing and price quoting
• Sample development and control whole sampling process
• Fabric and accessories sourcing and tracking
• Factory production scheduling and production tracking
• Arranging final inspection
• Shipping plan and booking
• Customer liaison etc
Read job responsibilities of a production merchant.
Merchandising and interdepartmental relations:
In an export house or garment manufacturing unit, a merchant plays major role in order execution. They need to interact with the entire department in a factory. The major departments in factory with whom merchants work closely is shown in the following diagram.
Quick Response Merchandising:
Apparel Merchandising is such a profession where one needs to be very much active all the time. As this is related with export, time management is very much important here. This is one of the scale of efficiency here that, how fast you can response.
Pre-Order & Post-Order merchandising:
Pre-order Jobs (Marketing Part):
• Marketing: Advertising/ Publicity/Promotional work
• Receiving Inquiry: Tech pack, Measurement chart and related information
• Price Quotation: Consumption, Costing, Pricing
• Negotiation: For price fixation
Post order Jobs (Execution part):
Sampling & Approvals: After confirmation of a order merchants need to sampling and take approval on samples, fabric development and trim and accessories. See the following chart for different types of sample.
Sampling and approvals
Raw material Sourcing, Production Follow up and Post Production Tasks:
Major tasks and process flow after sampling have been shown in the following diagram.
Merchandising as a Challenging Career:
There are lot of challenges in merchandising job. Those challenges may come from different perspectives. Here are major point to be looked into as career challenges.
• Career Perspective
• Educational Perspective
• Social Perspective
• Industrial Perspective
• Organizational Perspective
• Leadership Perspective
• Earning / Economical Perspective
From my personal point of view, in apparel merchandising, an individual needs to take tons of challenges and face much struggles to give birth a baby as a garment compared to other job profiles in the garment industry. “Time Management ” and “Hard Working” are two most important key merchandising skills that one must have to become a successful merchandiser.
What is the Right Career Option: Merchandising or Production (Industrial Engineering)?
Did anybody ask you this question before?
I have been asked this question many times by my juniors and by OCS readers. I thought it would be a great discussion if you share your thought on 'what to choose as career option- apparel merchandising or Garment production?’
I am happy to share that when I was studying in a fashion institute, I also asked this question to my seniors and to our faculties.
I would not write too much today. Just I will share one of my responses that I wrote to one of my fans. I would like to hear from you and share your views with newcomers to help them choosing right career option.
Question: "Actually I am a student of garment technology and I am very much confused to select the area of job from Merchandising & Industrial Engineering (IE). Please suggest me which one is the best option from Merchandising and IE"
My reply was:
To me both are the best. If you ask me to answer in one line my answer for you is - being a garment technology student you should choose Industrial Engineering as your career. Reason, you have gained in-depth knowledge on production areas rather than merchandising.
Though a course does not matter much when you have your dream job in your mind. If your dream is to become a merchandiser then you can work in merchandising.
I would say, selecting 'the best option' totally depends on you. What do you want to be? What are your key skills that are required in career growth in the apparel industry. Following are the important Key skills one need to be considered.
- Negotiation skill
- Logical thinking
- Communication skill
- Convincing power
- Managerial skill
- Team leading skill
- Communication skill both in written and verbal
If one does not have some of the above skills can be learned.
Here I would just show you the real facts of these two job profiles according to my point of views. You have to choose one out of two based on your interest and competency. In a moment I will share 4 key points that you need to look into before you select your career option.
#1 Job challenges and work profile:
When I look into these two profiles from business point of view, merchandising job is more challenging compared to an IE.
Being an IE you need to interact with people within your company (factory). You will have a small team. Most of time interact with production team. You will be involved in improving factory performance, reducing labor cost continuously, setting internal systems etc.
On the other hand being a merchandiser, you have to deal with buyers, buying office, testing labs, production team, sampling, sourcing, subcontracting jobs and many uncertain jobs for the business. To be an expert you have to acquire knowledge of wider fields.
For those who are interested in core production: When it comes for core production you need to work under lot of work pressure and have to manage a big team. Longer working hours in a day.
If you have not already read please check job responsibilities of an export house merchant and industrial engineers.
#2. Future growth:
In merchandising you will have wider range of job opportunities. Like - export houses, buying houses, buyers, retailing etc. This is considered as more sophisticated job profile (when you are in higher rank) than an IE.
For an IE the job profile is limited to garment production. But Industrial Engineering is one of the growing field in garment industry. IE are in demand now. Overseas job opportunities are also there for IEs.
Also read: Career opportunities in the Apparel Industry
#3. Job satisfaction:
Job satisfaction are there in both kind of works. Individual job satisfaction again depends on various factors. Like, who is your boss, your expectation from the company, work culture in the company and HR policies, yearly growth etc.
If you work in production you have to work longer hours in a day.
#4. Pay packages:
As a fresher you will get similar pay package in both job profiles. In long term, if you can grab a good position in a company you can pocket good salary in both jobs.
In garment factories there is no performance incentives for merchandisers as well as IEs. Merchandisers who work in buying offices or as a buyers may get good incentives by achieving target. (But this is not true for all).
So, what do you want to be? It is up to you to select right path for your career.
I missed to share that I was a Fashion Technology (Garment Technology) student. I selected garment production field as my career option. And till date I am mostly involved in garment production (Industrial Engineering).
This is what I had to say to all those are struggling to choose one out of these two job opportunities and newcomers who is still thinking to change his/her job and want to shift to other.
Now it is your turn to add some valuable notes for future professionals of the garment industry.
I have been asked this question many times by my juniors and by OCS readers. I thought it would be a great discussion if you share your thought on 'what to choose as career option- apparel merchandising or Garment production?’
I am happy to share that when I was studying in a fashion institute, I also asked this question to my seniors and to our faculties.
I would not write too much today. Just I will share one of my responses that I wrote to one of my fans. I would like to hear from you and share your views with newcomers to help them choosing right career option.
Question: "Actually I am a student of garment technology and I am very much confused to select the area of job from Merchandising & Industrial Engineering (IE). Please suggest me which one is the best option from Merchandising and IE"
My reply was:
To me both are the best. If you ask me to answer in one line my answer for you is - being a garment technology student you should choose Industrial Engineering as your career. Reason, you have gained in-depth knowledge on production areas rather than merchandising.
Though a course does not matter much when you have your dream job in your mind. If your dream is to become a merchandiser then you can work in merchandising.
I would say, selecting 'the best option' totally depends on you. What do you want to be? What are your key skills that are required in career growth in the apparel industry. Following are the important Key skills one need to be considered.
- Negotiation skill
- Logical thinking
- Communication skill
- Convincing power
- Managerial skill
- Team leading skill
- Communication skill both in written and verbal
If one does not have some of the above skills can be learned.
Here I would just show you the real facts of these two job profiles according to my point of views. You have to choose one out of two based on your interest and competency. In a moment I will share 4 key points that you need to look into before you select your career option.
#1 Job challenges and work profile:
When I look into these two profiles from business point of view, merchandising job is more challenging compared to an IE.
Being an IE you need to interact with people within your company (factory). You will have a small team. Most of time interact with production team. You will be involved in improving factory performance, reducing labor cost continuously, setting internal systems etc.
On the other hand being a merchandiser, you have to deal with buyers, buying office, testing labs, production team, sampling, sourcing, subcontracting jobs and many uncertain jobs for the business. To be an expert you have to acquire knowledge of wider fields.
For those who are interested in core production: When it comes for core production you need to work under lot of work pressure and have to manage a big team. Longer working hours in a day.
If you have not already read please check job responsibilities of an export house merchant and industrial engineers.
#2. Future growth:
In merchandising you will have wider range of job opportunities. Like - export houses, buying houses, buyers, retailing etc. This is considered as more sophisticated job profile (when you are in higher rank) than an IE.
For an IE the job profile is limited to garment production. But Industrial Engineering is one of the growing field in garment industry. IE are in demand now. Overseas job opportunities are also there for IEs.
Also read: Career opportunities in the Apparel Industry
#3. Job satisfaction:
Job satisfaction are there in both kind of works. Individual job satisfaction again depends on various factors. Like, who is your boss, your expectation from the company, work culture in the company and HR policies, yearly growth etc.
If you work in production you have to work longer hours in a day.
#4. Pay packages:
As a fresher you will get similar pay package in both job profiles. In long term, if you can grab a good position in a company you can pocket good salary in both jobs.
In garment factories there is no performance incentives for merchandisers as well as IEs. Merchandisers who work in buying offices or as a buyers may get good incentives by achieving target. (But this is not true for all).
So, what do you want to be? It is up to you to select right path for your career.
I missed to share that I was a Fashion Technology (Garment Technology) student. I selected garment production field as my career option. And till date I am mostly involved in garment production (Industrial Engineering).
This is what I had to say to all those are struggling to choose one out of these two job opportunities and newcomers who is still thinking to change his/her job and want to shift to other.
Now it is your turn to add some valuable notes for future professionals of the garment industry.
How sample approval delay affects in shipments of export orders?
Garment sample approval requirement, delay in approvals, and shipment delays are well known facts in garment export business.
Garment buyers place order with garment exporters with a mutually agreed lead time that starts with receiving of orders to ends at shipment dispatch. Within the given lead time factory needs to complete pre-production, production, and post-production processes. Sample approval is one such process that falls under pre-production process.
What is the sample approval?
Prior to start bulk production, suppliers need approval on samples at various stages from buyer to ensure that everything is okay to follow in bulk production. Various sampling stages may include FIT, SMS, Size set and PP Sample. Print strike off, fabric quality approval, embroidery approvals are also included in sample approval. Any delay in sample approval, due to let submission of samples to buyer or buyers delayed in giving approval from their end, factory had nothing to do but postponing following processes.
While pre-production planner or merchant prepares time and action calendar for the order, time period is allocated for each process depending on the process capacity. Major capacity is required in production and finishing.
As said above that when sampling approval process gets delayed, factory needs to postpone planned cut date (PCD). As a consequence garment production and garment finishing get delayed than the actual planned starting time. This results a shipment delay.
There are number of issues that can happen due to sample approval delays with shipment delay. Followings are the few most common consequences of delays in sample approval.
1. Shipment gets delayed: In normal production speed, when start time of every processes get shifted forward, shipment automatically gets delayed.
2. Delay of other styles: When a style gets delayed production processes overlapped with other orders those were running on time. At this situation factory faced capacity issue in production and finishing process. Though factories plan for overtime working to cover backlogs, it is not always possible to finish shipment on time.
3. Production cost increased: While shipment is getting delayed due to shorter time span for production and post-production processes, factory normally involves extra manpower to meet the lead time. This increases production cost for that specific style.
4. Quality issue: When a shipment is getting delayed, suppliers try to push every process to complete faster and overlook standard procedures. Not always but most cases factory produces garment with lot of defective pieces. To repair defective pieces and to ready the shipment up to accepted quality level, factory needs to spend more time and money. Quality issues may further extend the delay of the shipment.
5. Penalty to be paid for late shipment: Some buyers charge penalty fee for shipment delays. Some buyers accept delayed shipment in discount rate. So, shipment delay may cost the factory further due to late penalty charges.
6. Rejection of shipment: Even few buyers reject the shipment completely if the shipment gets delayed that shipment does not meet dead line.
To avoid above consequence due to shipment delay, factories need to plan and complete tasks before or on the deadline. Where delay in sampling approval is a regular issue, merchants needs to plans accordingly and need keep buffer time to cover such uncertain delays.
Garment buyers place order with garment exporters with a mutually agreed lead time that starts with receiving of orders to ends at shipment dispatch. Within the given lead time factory needs to complete pre-production, production, and post-production processes. Sample approval is one such process that falls under pre-production process.
What is the sample approval?
Prior to start bulk production, suppliers need approval on samples at various stages from buyer to ensure that everything is okay to follow in bulk production. Various sampling stages may include FIT, SMS, Size set and PP Sample. Print strike off, fabric quality approval, embroidery approvals are also included in sample approval. Any delay in sample approval, due to let submission of samples to buyer or buyers delayed in giving approval from their end, factory had nothing to do but postponing following processes.
While pre-production planner or merchant prepares time and action calendar for the order, time period is allocated for each process depending on the process capacity. Major capacity is required in production and finishing.
As said above that when sampling approval process gets delayed, factory needs to postpone planned cut date (PCD). As a consequence garment production and garment finishing get delayed than the actual planned starting time. This results a shipment delay.
There are number of issues that can happen due to sample approval delays with shipment delay. Followings are the few most common consequences of delays in sample approval.
1. Shipment gets delayed: In normal production speed, when start time of every processes get shifted forward, shipment automatically gets delayed.
2. Delay of other styles: When a style gets delayed production processes overlapped with other orders those were running on time. At this situation factory faced capacity issue in production and finishing process. Though factories plan for overtime working to cover backlogs, it is not always possible to finish shipment on time.
3. Production cost increased: While shipment is getting delayed due to shorter time span for production and post-production processes, factory normally involves extra manpower to meet the lead time. This increases production cost for that specific style.
4. Quality issue: When a shipment is getting delayed, suppliers try to push every process to complete faster and overlook standard procedures. Not always but most cases factory produces garment with lot of defective pieces. To repair defective pieces and to ready the shipment up to accepted quality level, factory needs to spend more time and money. Quality issues may further extend the delay of the shipment.
5. Penalty to be paid for late shipment: Some buyers charge penalty fee for shipment delays. Some buyers accept delayed shipment in discount rate. So, shipment delay may cost the factory further due to late penalty charges.
6. Rejection of shipment: Even few buyers reject the shipment completely if the shipment gets delayed that shipment does not meet dead line.
To avoid above consequence due to shipment delay, factories need to plan and complete tasks before or on the deadline. Where delay in sampling approval is a regular issue, merchants needs to plans accordingly and need keep buffer time to cover such uncertain delays.
What is Red Tag (Sealed) Sample?
A sample with red tag is an identification of a sample that buyer had approved and sealed that particular sample
for production. A sealed sample means approved garment construction,
approved trims attached to the garment. Receiving a Red tag sample from
buyer is the approval for production go ahead to the factory.
Sealed sample with Red Tag
Buyers attach colored tags to approved samples and send back to the suppliers. Buyer uses different color tags for different sample type, like Green tag is used for Size set samples and Red Tag is used for PP samples (Pre-Production sample). Once attached these tags cannot be removed easily from the sample garment.
Tag is attached to a sample (some buyers also include comment sheets) so that suppliers cannot replace sealed sample or cannot show any other garments as a approved sample. Tags are attached to sample to ensure that no unapproved sample is referred in production.
Secondly a Red Tag as shown in the above image helps merchandisers, production team and quality personnel to identify easily the correct sealed sample for production from other samples of the same style. If there is any confusion related to garment construction at time of production, production department just refers to the Red tag sealed sample.
At the time of quality inspection buyer representative refers to the sealed sample and buyers comments on that sample. Shipment inspection is done based on the sealed sample.
**Note: Color coding for the tags may vary buyer to buyer.
What are the Merchandiser’s Roles in Product Development?
In the context of garment export business
normally product development is handled by design department. But where
there is no design team, merchants are
responsible for whole production development process. In export houses
sampling department is considered as product development department.
In a typical factory, merchandiser’s roles in product development are as following
• Coordination with buyers and collect latest product designs, color scheme and fabric qualities those are going to be used in coming seasons
• Send request to pattern making department for developing patterns for new designs
• Prepare material requirement sheet and get sourcing done of required trims and accessories from local and imported suppliers
• Responsible for quality standards of sourced material
• Get approvals of Lap dips, Bit loom and strike off directly from buyers or from buying office
• Value added processes like printing and embroidery work is get done by merchants if required in product
• She explains sampling master about the design and buyers requirement mentioned in spec sheet
• Merchants send samples to buyers for approvals on each stage of development and download buyer’s comments to sampling team and pattern master
• Do follow up with sampling tailors at the time of stitching of samples
• Check finished sample and arrange to send the samples to the buyer
• Costing of developed products
Merchandiser’s roles in product development mostly cover above responsibilities but not limited to those only. It may very company to company and factory location.
In a typical factory, merchandiser’s roles in product development are as following
• Coordination with buyers and collect latest product designs, color scheme and fabric qualities those are going to be used in coming seasons
• Send request to pattern making department for developing patterns for new designs
• Prepare material requirement sheet and get sourcing done of required trims and accessories from local and imported suppliers
• Responsible for quality standards of sourced material
• Get approvals of Lap dips, Bit loom and strike off directly from buyers or from buying office
• Value added processes like printing and embroidery work is get done by merchants if required in product
• She explains sampling master about the design and buyers requirement mentioned in spec sheet
• Merchants send samples to buyers for approvals on each stage of development and download buyer’s comments to sampling team and pattern master
• Do follow up with sampling tailors at the time of stitching of samples
• Check finished sample and arrange to send the samples to the buyer
• Costing of developed products
Merchandiser’s roles in product development mostly cover above responsibilities but not limited to those only. It may very company to company and factory location.
How to Calculate Size Wise Cut Quantity from the Size Ratio in an Order
How to calculate size wise cutting quantity for 10000 pieces? For example, suppose we have received a production order of 10000 pieces and the order size ratio is S:M:L:XL = 1:2:2:1. Please help me with the formula. ... asked by Mala SN
Mostly when apparel buyers place an order with suppliers, they provide total order quantity and what sizes to be made and in which ratio garments to be made for different sizes. Later when cut order plan is made size wise quantity is calculated.
Mathematical calculation is used to convert ratios into quantity. You can use following steps to find size wise quantity.
Step#1. Calculate sum of all ratios. Here size ratio (1:2:2:1), 1+2+2+1 =6
Step#2. Divide total order quantity by sum of ratio (here 6)
Step#3. Multiply the result by ratio of a particular size
If we consider above data for example, size wise cutting quantity will be
Quantity in S = (10000 /6) *1 = 1666.66 = 1667
Quantity in M = (10000 /6) *2 = 3333.33 = 3333
Quantity in L = (10000 /6) *2 = 3333.33 = 3333
Quantity in XL = (10000 /6) *1 = 1666.66 = 1667
So we can write the formula as following
Quantity of a size = (order quantity X ratio of the particular size)/ (Sum of ratio of all sizes)
The above calculation can be made easily by using excel sheet. You can create a table with formula. Later when you get order and size ratios, enter those on the specific cells; you will get actual cut quantity. For reference I have shown you a simple cut order plan (for single color) in the following table.
Cut order plan sheet for single color
You can download above cut order plan (in excel format) just by sharing on Google+ or Twitter or liking our Facebook page. Just click on one of the following buttons.
Mostly when apparel buyers place an order with suppliers, they provide total order quantity and what sizes to be made and in which ratio garments to be made for different sizes. Later when cut order plan is made size wise quantity is calculated.
Mathematical calculation is used to convert ratios into quantity. You can use following steps to find size wise quantity.
Step#1. Calculate sum of all ratios. Here size ratio (1:2:2:1), 1+2+2+1 =6
Step#2. Divide total order quantity by sum of ratio (here 6)
Step#3. Multiply the result by ratio of a particular size
If we consider above data for example, size wise cutting quantity will be
Quantity in S = (10000 /6) *1 = 1666.66 = 1667
Quantity in M = (10000 /6) *2 = 3333.33 = 3333
Quantity in L = (10000 /6) *2 = 3333.33 = 3333
Quantity in XL = (10000 /6) *1 = 1666.66 = 1667
So we can write the formula as following
Quantity of a size = (order quantity X ratio of the particular size)/ (Sum of ratio of all sizes)
The above calculation can be made easily by using excel sheet. You can create a table with formula. Later when you get order and size ratios, enter those on the specific cells; you will get actual cut quantity. For reference I have shown you a simple cut order plan (for single color) in the following table.
Cut order plan sheet for single color
You can download above cut order plan (in excel format) just by sharing on Google+ or Twitter or liking our Facebook page. Just click on one of the following buttons.
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